#1 Adopting a Senior Pet: Older Dogs Aren't As Good As Younger Dogs
Many people believe that they should only adopt puppies or young dogs. The truth is, many middle age and senior animals need homes, too. My last two adoptions were older dogs, adopted at age 5 and age 8. The eight year old was not housebroken, so I am training him just like I would if he was a puppy. In my house, the oldest dog has more moments of wild puppy, and runs all over the house and yard - often still going when the 3 year old is tired out. Don't discount a dog just because he or she is older. Often (but not always), they are already house trained, leash trained, and know basic commands.
#2 Symptoms Don't Need To Be Checked Out Because It's Just Old Age
Older dogs can be more susceptible for serious and progressive diseases like cancer, arthritis, mental decline, diseases of the heart, kidneys, and liver. Early signs are often attributed by pet owners to "old age", but many of these issues can be treated when caught early. Some of these signs include reduced activity levels, weight loss or gain, changes in appetite (decrease or increase), increased drinking and/or urination, limping or stiffness, decreased vision (sometimes manifests as dogs running into objects or refusing to go outside in the dark), or periods of disorientation/confusion (such as a dog "forgets" where the door to go outside is located, or "forgets" where they sleep.)
#3 Senior Pets Only Need Yearly Checkups
As your dog ages, she will need to see the vet more often. It may be twice a year or more. This is because for every human year, a dog ages 4-10 "dog" years. A lot can happen in that time, and diseases that weren't present six months ago can be caught and treated. Older dogs often also need additional blood work done to test for conditions or to provide a baseline so the vet can tell when changes are happening.
#4 Nothing Can Be Done To Help Older Pets
When caught early, many conditions are treatable, and some can be reversed or cured! Pain management is available for dogs, and it's not that expensive to give your pet relief. Just like with human arthritis, the condition can be managed in dogs. There is treatment for cancer, as well as heart conditions, and so many other conditions. Your pet doesn't have to suffer!
Whether you are a seasoned dog owner or a new dog owner, there is something here for you! From information about parasites, unusual illnesses, common medical issues, to personal stories about dog ownership, you will find it here! Also, recipes, money-saving tips, and occasionally canine-themed giveaways, too!
Monday, September 26, 2016
Monday, September 12, 2016
Dog Food Allergies: The Struggle Is Real
Food Allergies. When I hear that, I usually think about human food allergies. You hear stories about kids that are allergic to peanuts or strawberries. I knew that dogs could also have food allergies, but didn't have any personal experience dealing with it.
That was before, and this is now. Now, I have a little experience because my newest adoption, eight year old Lil Bit, is allergic to chicken. When I adopted him, he had a skin condition that appeared to be a fungal infection, but he had also chewed his feet so much that they were infected. He was given prednisone, OTC antihistamines like benedryl and zyrtec (not together!), antibiotics, and an antifungal. He had a small amount of improvement, but the condition and his misery persisted. I took him back to the vet and we discussed his environment and food.
Grains are usually a culprit of food allergies, and when I first adopted him, he was eating a food that contained grains. I had transitioned him over to a food that was grain free though, because my other two dogs eat grain free food. His skin improved a little, but not much. Since he was eating a high quality grain free food, we decided to see if the protein, or meat source was the issue. He was eating a chicken based food. I normally rotate feed different brands and proteins, so my dogs usually get a rotation of beef, chicken, and fish proteins. The vet suggested we switch to a fished based diet.
Wow, did I find there is chicken in EVERYTHING! My vet said to avoid all chicken including chicken meal, chicken fats, chicken organs (liver), and eggs. I did a lot of research and tried to find a fish based kibble that wasn't terribly high in fat (under 12% is ideal since I have an overweight dog). I compared reviews on sites like www.chewy.com (where I tend to buy dog food) and also reviews on DogFoodAdvisor. To make my life easier for a few weeks, I decided to switch all of my dogs to the same fish based food. it would help to make sure my chicken-allergic dog wasn't accidentally fed food with chicken.
Ultimately, I chose a food that contained 8% fat, 26% protein, and 394 calories per cup. Since this food is much higher in calories than my dogs normally eat (they are usually 320-345 per cup), I reduced the amount of kibble, but did add in some extra veggies to help them feel full and get some extra nutrition. I posted about the kind of veggies I use as food toppers, but pretty much any fruit or vegetable that is safe for them to eat works pretty well. In order to find a food with no chicken that met my other requirements, I ended up getting a limited ingredient kibble, so the extra veggies help supply some important nutrients.
I also had to check the labels on treats because while many of theirs are homemade, like my three ingredient cookies, some treats like their dental treats, I do buy. I found that even the beef flavored treats had at least chicken broth in them. I finally found a vegetarian dental treat made by Blue Buffalo that didn't have any kind of chicken product.
My tips for finding a food and/or treats for food allergic dogs:
Sources:
Pet Education
DFA
That was before, and this is now. Now, I have a little experience because my newest adoption, eight year old Lil Bit, is allergic to chicken. When I adopted him, he had a skin condition that appeared to be a fungal infection, but he had also chewed his feet so much that they were infected. He was given prednisone, OTC antihistamines like benedryl and zyrtec (not together!), antibiotics, and an antifungal. He had a small amount of improvement, but the condition and his misery persisted. I took him back to the vet and we discussed his environment and food.
Grains are usually a culprit of food allergies, and when I first adopted him, he was eating a food that contained grains. I had transitioned him over to a food that was grain free though, because my other two dogs eat grain free food. His skin improved a little, but not much. Since he was eating a high quality grain free food, we decided to see if the protein, or meat source was the issue. He was eating a chicken based food. I normally rotate feed different brands and proteins, so my dogs usually get a rotation of beef, chicken, and fish proteins. The vet suggested we switch to a fished based diet.
Wow, did I find there is chicken in EVERYTHING! My vet said to avoid all chicken including chicken meal, chicken fats, chicken organs (liver), and eggs. I did a lot of research and tried to find a fish based kibble that wasn't terribly high in fat (under 12% is ideal since I have an overweight dog). I compared reviews on sites like www.chewy.com (where I tend to buy dog food) and also reviews on DogFoodAdvisor. To make my life easier for a few weeks, I decided to switch all of my dogs to the same fish based food. it would help to make sure my chicken-allergic dog wasn't accidentally fed food with chicken.
Ultimately, I chose a food that contained 8% fat, 26% protein, and 394 calories per cup. Since this food is much higher in calories than my dogs normally eat (they are usually 320-345 per cup), I reduced the amount of kibble, but did add in some extra veggies to help them feel full and get some extra nutrition. I posted about the kind of veggies I use as food toppers, but pretty much any fruit or vegetable that is safe for them to eat works pretty well. In order to find a food with no chicken that met my other requirements, I ended up getting a limited ingredient kibble, so the extra veggies help supply some important nutrients.
I also had to check the labels on treats because while many of theirs are homemade, like my three ingredient cookies, some treats like their dental treats, I do buy. I found that even the beef flavored treats had at least chicken broth in them. I finally found a vegetarian dental treat made by Blue Buffalo that didn't have any kind of chicken product.
My tips for finding a food and/or treats for food allergic dogs:
- The most common ingredients for dogs to be allergic to (in order of likelihood) are beef, dairy products, chicken, lamb, fish, chicken eggs, corn, wheat, and soy.
- Check the ingredients! Even if the main protein is different, you may find the many foods will use more than one, especially in the form of meal (i.e. chicken meal).
- Consider Grain Free, since many allergies are related to grains.
- You may need to even consider vegetarian, if your dog is allergic to multiple proteins.
- Consider an unusual protein source, like rabbit or kangaroo. Dogs seem to be allergic to the most common proteins, chicken and beef.
- You have to keep your dog on the new food and avoid the suspected allergy for several weeks to see real improvement.
- Common signs of allergy are itchy skin, recurrent ear infections, hair loss, paw biting, and excessive licking. Keep an eye on your dog whenever switching foods and watch for these symptoms.
- Keep in mind, medicines like heartworm preventatives may contain the ingredient your pet is allergic to.
- If you end up feeding a limited ingredient diet, you may also need to supplement with a variety of fruits and veggies, and/or with a canine vitamin supplement to ensure proper nutrition.
Share your struggles with dog food allergies - and share how you found relief for your dog!
Please either share here by posting a comment or on our facebook page!
Sources:
Pet Education
DFA
Friday, September 9, 2016
Food Toppers: What are they and why use them?
So, what is a food topper anyway? Food toppers are either homemade or commercially prepared concoctions that you add to your dog's dry kibble. It can be anything from warm water, to fruits/veggies, homemade or commercially prepared gravies, or canned dog food. Sometimes they are called "mixers" or "additions".
Why bother using them? There are about as many reasons to use food toppers as there are different kinds of food toppers. Some people use them on their dog's kibble to enhance the flavor, to change things up to keep the dog from getting bored by the kibble, to add missing nutrients, to boost protein levels, as a supplement for a dog that maybe doesn't eat enough kibble, to provide a lower-calorie or lower fat replacement for some of the kibble, etc.
I can't tell you what the best toppers are or why you should use them, but I can tell you what I use, and why I choose not to use commercially prepared toppers except for occasionally store bought canned dog food (though they are definitely time savers).
I have three dogs that are prone to weight gain (hello, beagles!), and one of those, Otis, was noticeably obese when I adopted him. I discussed some of the reasons this is a serious health issue in my post about Obesity in Dogs. One of the things I am doing to help him lose weight is I switched to a lower calorie and lower fat kibble, and also cut back on the amount of kibble I give him. I don't want the adjustment to be hard on him, or for him to always be hungry and looking for food. I've dieted before, and being hungry is miserable. So, I started replacing some of the kibble with a food topper, and in his case, it's fresh or steamed fruits and veggies. It's super easy to make, and I usually steam up the veggies while I'm catching up on reading news articles or checking Facebook.
But food toppers can be a nice change of pace even for dogs who don't need to watch their weight. Using different kinds of toppers can help keep food interesting and can also help fill any gaps in nutrition. For example, my basset has decided she doesn't like the salmon food that my smallest beagle must eat due to an allergy to chicken. To help make her food more palatable, I add some steamed or fresh veggies and fruits and she gobbles up all of the food.
Homemade vs. Commercial toppers
There is nothing inherently wrong with using commercial toppers, and I have been known to occasionally use canned dog food to make a slurry (more on that below!). As a rule, though, I prefer to make my own because then I know exactly what's in it (no chemicals or questionable ingredients) and it's less expensive. I tend to use vegetables that are in season (and sometimes no salt added canned vegetables) and just buy a little extra to use for the pups. Some vegetables, like butternut squash, produce way more food than what the humans need, so the pups get some, too.
I don't want to endorse any of the commercially made toppers because I just don't have a ton of experience with them, other than some canned foods. I have found that "stew" type canned foods work better than "casserole" type, and it really only takes a spoonful or two - just enough to cover the kibble or be mixed with it. If you have the casserole type, you can add water to make a slurry - which will result in fewer extra calories and the can lasting longer since it will take less caned food to cover the kibble.
For commercial toppers, I suggest looking for brands and flavors that have ingredients you recognize and can pronounce., and make sure meat or veggies are the first ingredients. I've not used any the the available gravies or other toppers, so feel free to let me know in the comments (either on this blog or on FB) about what you think of any that you try.
Homemade toppers are easier and less time consuming than you think. I frequently add either a single ingredient or a medley of ingredients to my pup's food, including beets, green beans, carrots, butternut squash, sweet potato, green pepper, apples, and strawberries. Sometimes, if I have bits or scraps of uncooked meat, I will throw it in, too.
Several days ago, I roasted some butternut squash and sweet potatoes for my family. I like to cut them both up into chunks for quicker roasting, so I just cut extra and set aside for the dogs. We only eat half of the squash, and the other half becomes a food topper. I chopped up the half of a butternut squash and a small sweet potato and steamed them together for maybe 10 minutes. Once it cooled, I put it in a container in the fridge. Sometimes I warm a few tablespoons of vegetables with a little water before adding it to their food, but sometimes I just add it cold (especially on hot days!).
After eating this for a couple of days, my pups had gone through a bit of it, and I added a can of no salt added green beans. After another couple of days, there wasn't much left, so I chopped up some apples, carrots, and fresh green beans and lightly steamed them while I checked Facebook and ate my breakfast. Once cooled, I mixed these in with the sweet potato and squash. Once that mixture got low, I added in a can of no salt added beets - which turned everything in the bowl pink, but my dogs didn't mind! In another day or so, I will likely add in some raw fruits and veggies like chopped strawberries, chopped raw carrots, and chopped green pepper. I like to use up the last of something that would otherwise probably not get used. I also sometimes add raw chopped apples.
Just make sure the foods you are using as toppers are safe for dogs. This means NO grapes or raisins! Dogs can have fruits that have a pit like peaches, but the pit itself is toxic. Apples are a great choice, but be aware that the seeds are toxic to dogs.
(Dangerous Foods graphic courtesy thatpetplace.com)
(Healthy Dog Snacks graphic courtesy Enlightened By A Dog)
SOURCES:
Personal Experience :)
Why bother using them? There are about as many reasons to use food toppers as there are different kinds of food toppers. Some people use them on their dog's kibble to enhance the flavor, to change things up to keep the dog from getting bored by the kibble, to add missing nutrients, to boost protein levels, as a supplement for a dog that maybe doesn't eat enough kibble, to provide a lower-calorie or lower fat replacement for some of the kibble, etc.
I can't tell you what the best toppers are or why you should use them, but I can tell you what I use, and why I choose not to use commercially prepared toppers except for occasionally store bought canned dog food (though they are definitely time savers).
I have three dogs that are prone to weight gain (hello, beagles!), and one of those, Otis, was noticeably obese when I adopted him. I discussed some of the reasons this is a serious health issue in my post about Obesity in Dogs. One of the things I am doing to help him lose weight is I switched to a lower calorie and lower fat kibble, and also cut back on the amount of kibble I give him. I don't want the adjustment to be hard on him, or for him to always be hungry and looking for food. I've dieted before, and being hungry is miserable. So, I started replacing some of the kibble with a food topper, and in his case, it's fresh or steamed fruits and veggies. It's super easy to make, and I usually steam up the veggies while I'm catching up on reading news articles or checking Facebook.
But food toppers can be a nice change of pace even for dogs who don't need to watch their weight. Using different kinds of toppers can help keep food interesting and can also help fill any gaps in nutrition. For example, my basset has decided she doesn't like the salmon food that my smallest beagle must eat due to an allergy to chicken. To help make her food more palatable, I add some steamed or fresh veggies and fruits and she gobbles up all of the food.
Homemade vs. Commercial toppers
There is nothing inherently wrong with using commercial toppers, and I have been known to occasionally use canned dog food to make a slurry (more on that below!). As a rule, though, I prefer to make my own because then I know exactly what's in it (no chemicals or questionable ingredients) and it's less expensive. I tend to use vegetables that are in season (and sometimes no salt added canned vegetables) and just buy a little extra to use for the pups. Some vegetables, like butternut squash, produce way more food than what the humans need, so the pups get some, too.
I don't want to endorse any of the commercially made toppers because I just don't have a ton of experience with them, other than some canned foods. I have found that "stew" type canned foods work better than "casserole" type, and it really only takes a spoonful or two - just enough to cover the kibble or be mixed with it. If you have the casserole type, you can add water to make a slurry - which will result in fewer extra calories and the can lasting longer since it will take less caned food to cover the kibble.
For commercial toppers, I suggest looking for brands and flavors that have ingredients you recognize and can pronounce., and make sure meat or veggies are the first ingredients. I've not used any the the available gravies or other toppers, so feel free to let me know in the comments (either on this blog or on FB) about what you think of any that you try.
Homemade toppers are easier and less time consuming than you think. I frequently add either a single ingredient or a medley of ingredients to my pup's food, including beets, green beans, carrots, butternut squash, sweet potato, green pepper, apples, and strawberries. Sometimes, if I have bits or scraps of uncooked meat, I will throw it in, too.
Several days ago, I roasted some butternut squash and sweet potatoes for my family. I like to cut them both up into chunks for quicker roasting, so I just cut extra and set aside for the dogs. We only eat half of the squash, and the other half becomes a food topper. I chopped up the half of a butternut squash and a small sweet potato and steamed them together for maybe 10 minutes. Once it cooled, I put it in a container in the fridge. Sometimes I warm a few tablespoons of vegetables with a little water before adding it to their food, but sometimes I just add it cold (especially on hot days!).
After eating this for a couple of days, my pups had gone through a bit of it, and I added a can of no salt added green beans. After another couple of days, there wasn't much left, so I chopped up some apples, carrots, and fresh green beans and lightly steamed them while I checked Facebook and ate my breakfast. Once cooled, I mixed these in with the sweet potato and squash. Once that mixture got low, I added in a can of no salt added beets - which turned everything in the bowl pink, but my dogs didn't mind! In another day or so, I will likely add in some raw fruits and veggies like chopped strawberries, chopped raw carrots, and chopped green pepper. I like to use up the last of something that would otherwise probably not get used. I also sometimes add raw chopped apples.
homemade veggie topper: sweet potatoes, butternut squash, canned green beans, steamed green beans, carrots, and steamed grannysmith apple.
I also will sometimes just add warm water, and will stir the kibble in the water to create a gravy. The extra water helps to fill a dieting dog's stomach, and makes the food smell better to your pup, too. Adding water doesn't add any calories, so it's a win-win for those watching their dog's weight.
So, what's a slurry you ask? It's a semi-liquid mixture. In the case of dog food, it's like a runny stew. You can mix stewed or casserole canned food with water to make a slurry, or you can even mash up some sweet potatoes/squash and add water to make that into a slurry. The water helps to thin out the food and will help to cover the kibble with it. It's a great way to stretch a little bit of veggies or a little bit of canned food, but only as a topper and never as a meal replacement.
I have also been known to take one of the 3 Ingredient Cookies and crumble it over a bowl of kibble when I'm in a hurry. I make the cookies in batches and usually end up freezing at least half, since unfortunately, they will mold after a few days left at room temperature. My dogs will eat them either frozen or thawed, and I usually have some at room temp. I just crumbled one (or half of one for the smaller dogs) over the food and Voila! The kibble becomes undeniably tasty to my pups.
If your dog doesn't have allergies to foods like chicken, you can add in a little low sodium chicken broth. Many dogs like a little plain yogurt (greek yogurt seems to work best) or cottage cheese. My dogs love scrambled eggs, though after finding out one of the dogs is allergic to chicken, I have stopped making that. It was great though - I could split one (or sometimes two) scrambled eggs between the three dogs and they were in heaven.
Just make sure the foods you are using as toppers are safe for dogs. This means NO grapes or raisins! Dogs can have fruits that have a pit like peaches, but the pit itself is toxic. Apples are a great choice, but be aware that the seeds are toxic to dogs.
(Dangerous Foods graphic courtesy thatpetplace.com)
(Healthy Dog Snacks graphic courtesy Enlightened By A Dog)
SOURCES:
Personal Experience :)
Wednesday, September 7, 2016
Five OTC Medications That You Can Give Your Dogs
You should always consult your vet for the specific dosage for your dog. This post is meant as a guide or reference only and should not be considered medical advice. Always consult your vet before giving any OTC medication to your dog.
With any of these medications, make sure you are giving a single ingredient formula, and that the medication you are giving does NOT contain a decongestant, tylenol (acetaminophen) or advil (ibuprofen). These are toxic to dogs. Just one Advil (ibuprofen) pill may kill your dog.Benadryl, also known as diphenhydramine, is an anti-histamine that is often suggested by vets to treat allergic reactions just like in people. It can be used to treat itching, rashes, and even nasal congestion. It can also work to help prevent motion sickness, but only if it makes your dog drowsy.
- Dosage: 1.5- 1mg/per lb every 8 hrs with food. Just like with people, Benadryl can cause excitability in dogs, or it can cause drowsiness. Do not give more than 2mg per pound unless directed by a vet.
- Side effects include: dry mouth, sedation, decreased appetite, vomiting, diarrhea
- Signs of Overdose include: powerful sedation, seizures, clumsiness, and respiratory issues.
Dramamine is often prescribed to treat motion-sickness. I've used both Dramamine and Benedryl (NOT together!) before a long car trip to help prevent my basset, Remy, from suffering from motion sickness. The backseat of my car suffered several messes until I learned that she could take this. Do not give to a pregnant dog.
- Dosage: 2-4mg per pound of body weight, given 30-60 minutes before travel.
- Side Effects include: dry mouth, sedation, difficulty urinating, dehydration, appetite loss, excessive thirst.
- Signs of Overdose include: vomiting, seizures, lethargy, respiratory problems
Zyrtec is the brand name for Cetrizine, and though not forulated for dogs, is commonly prescribed by vets for skin issues or allergies. It seems to be hit or miss - it works miraculously well for some dogs and not at all for others. Make sure to only give your dog regular Zyrtec or it's generic equivelent, and never Zyrtec-D. The "D" stands for decongestant and can very well kill your pooch.
- Dosage: 0.5 mg per pound of body weight, taken either once or twice daily depending on allergy severity.
- Side Effects include: vomiting, salivation (drooling), urine retention, constipation
- Signs of Overdose include: vomiting, lethargy/heavy sedation, excessive drooling.
Robitussin DM is also known by it's generic name dextromethorphan and guaifenesin and like all of the medications, can be given to your dog after you check with your vet. Like with people, it's used to treat a hacking cough. It should only be used with your vet's prior approval, and only for very short periods. If your dog requires more than 2-3 doses, you need to take your dog in to see your vet. This medication will not cure the cause of the cough, but will suppress the cough. The liquid may contain alcohol, which can be dangerous for dogs, so check the label every time and always consult with your vet. Also, double check to make sure that the formulation you have does not contain acetaminophen (Tylenol) or ibuprofen (Advil) as those are toxic and can be fatal to dogs.
- Dosage: 0.5 mg per pound of body weight, once every 8 hours.
- Side Effects can include sedation, lack of coordination, weakness, nausea and heightened thirst.
- Signs of Overdose include: heavy sedation, listlessness, restlessness, confusion, tremor, irregular heartbeat, seizures, and difficulty urinating.
Pedialyte can be given to a dog that has experienced vomiting or diarrhea and who may be mildly dehydrated as a result. Pedialyte contains chloride, sodium, and potassium and drinking it will help your dog restore balanced levels of electrolytes. Generally speaking, you should try the unflavored pedialyte and avoid the flavored varieties, though the flavored pedialyte probably won't case any harm. You can mix it with water, but don't mix it with any other fluids.
- Dosage: Since it wasn't formulated for dogs, there is some disagreement over the dose. I prefer to err on the side of caution and start with a smaller dose and increase if necessary. A good starting point is around 1/4 cup every hour for a few hours, but you may need to dilute or mix it to get your dog to drink it.
- Side Effects: you may notice your dog has to urinate more often, but for a dog that has been even mildly dehydrated, this is a good thing!
- Signs of Overdose: I couldn't find any clearly documented, but I would advise that if your dog appears to dehydrated even after a couple of cups of Pedialyte, you need to get your dog to the vet for them to assess. I personally would not give my dogs more than a cup or two of Pedialyte and not see a vet.
SOURCES:
Tuesday, September 6, 2016
RECALL ALERT: RX EYE DROPS FOR DOGS
Kinetic Technologies and Kinetic Vet located in Lexington, KY has voluntarily recalled Hy-Optic – lot # 10092015, OptiVet – lot # 12032015 and Optimend – lot # 01122015. This voluntary recall is the result of deficiencies in sterility, which may lead to deteriorating eye conditions, irritation and/or infection.
- Hy-Optic Eye Irrigating Solution – NDC # 51031-011-15, Lot # 10092015, Exp. Date 10/2017
- OptiVet Eye Irrigating Solution –- NDC # 51031-011-15, Lot # 12032015, Exp. Date 07/2017
- Optimend Corneal Repair Drops – NDC # 51031-013-10, Lot # 01122015, Exp. Date 10/2017
Each product is packaged in a branded box with the lot number and expiration date printed on the box. Hy-Optic Eye Irrigating Solution and OptiVet Eye Irrigating Solution are packaged in 15 mL oval eye drop containers and labeled prior to packaging. No animal species are listed on the label for use in non-specified animals. Optimend Corneal Repair Drops is packaged in a 10 mL circular eye drop container and labeled prior to packaging for use in dogs, cats and horses for the treatment of corneal ulcers.
FOR MORE INFO, Check the FDA site: http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/ucm519174.htm
Thursday, September 1, 2016
Head Shaking: Why does my dog do it?
If your dog shakes his head only very occasionally, it's usually nothing to worry about and your dog may just need his ears cleaned. But if you notice your dog shaking her head a lot, or very hard, or simply more than usual, it may warrant a trip to the vet.
Your dog may have a bacterial or fungal infection, or may even have mites! Any dog can get an ear infection, or Otitis Externa, but those with longer or floppy ears are usually more susceptible. The most noticeable sign of an ear infection is head shaking and ear flapping, or your dog may show off her flexibility and use her feet to rub or scratch at her ears.
The first thing you should do is clean your dogs ears. I like to use a cleanser such as Virbac Epi-Otic or Zymox Ear Cleaner. There are two ways most people clean their dog's ears. You can soak a cotton ball with the cleaner, then gently wipe inside your dog's ear. Use a fresh cotton ball for each ear, and you may need a dry cotton ball to get all of the debris out. Their ear canal is "L" shaped, so you can feel pretty comfortable cleaning their ears without worrying about going too deep. The other method is to squirt a little bit of the cleaner in each ear, then massage the ear with your fingers to work the cleanser in and help break up debris. Then you wipe out the ear with a tissue or cotton ball. My vet has told me that it's safe to clean my dog's ears everyday as long as I am getting debris (or have a dirty cotton ball after wiping out the ear). You may need to clean your dogs ears daily until the head shaking subsides, then less often such every other day, once a week, once every two weeks - whatever works and keeps your dog's ears from being dirty and getting infected.
Your dog may have a bacterial or fungal infection and need to see the vet for diagnosis and treatment. Usually, the vet will swab the ears to determine the cause, then prescribe ear drops. Your dog may moan with relief when you rub her ears, or he may cry or wince/pull away in pain. You may notice dark discharge in the ear or when you clean your dog's ears, and your pup's ears may have a less than pleasant odor. Moderate to severe cases may require an oral medication like the steroid prednisone to help with the itching and reduce inflammation.
Other causes may be foreign body in the ear (bugs, grass clippings, etc), ear mites (small parasites), or allergies to the environment or an ingredient in her food. I recently discovered that one of my dogs may be allergic to chicken, and it wasn't until I switched him to fish-based food and treats with zero chicken, chicken meal, eggs, or chicken fat that his ears finally started to clear up!
When in doubt, see your vet. If your dog is uncomfortable, itching, scratching, and shaking his head, it's time to be checked out by a vet to determine the true cause and treat it.
SOURCES:
VetStreet
Pet WebMD
MedicineNet
Your dog may have a bacterial or fungal infection, or may even have mites! Any dog can get an ear infection, or Otitis Externa, but those with longer or floppy ears are usually more susceptible. The most noticeable sign of an ear infection is head shaking and ear flapping, or your dog may show off her flexibility and use her feet to rub or scratch at her ears.
Your dog may have a bacterial or fungal infection and need to see the vet for diagnosis and treatment. Usually, the vet will swab the ears to determine the cause, then prescribe ear drops. Your dog may moan with relief when you rub her ears, or he may cry or wince/pull away in pain. You may notice dark discharge in the ear or when you clean your dog's ears, and your pup's ears may have a less than pleasant odor. Moderate to severe cases may require an oral medication like the steroid prednisone to help with the itching and reduce inflammation.
Other causes may be foreign body in the ear (bugs, grass clippings, etc), ear mites (small parasites), or allergies to the environment or an ingredient in her food. I recently discovered that one of my dogs may be allergic to chicken, and it wasn't until I switched him to fish-based food and treats with zero chicken, chicken meal, eggs, or chicken fat that his ears finally started to clear up!
When in doubt, see your vet. If your dog is uncomfortable, itching, scratching, and shaking his head, it's time to be checked out by a vet to determine the true cause and treat it.
SOURCES:
VetStreet
Pet WebMD
MedicineNet
Monday, August 29, 2016
Canine Vaccines: The Diseases That They Prevent
You know that you get your dog vaccinated, but do you know what the vaccines are for?
Vaccines work by introducing the virus or bacteria to the body in a very small amount, so that the body's natural immune system will develop antibodies to the virus. Once your dog's body does this, if the actual virus or bacteria is contracted, your dog's body will recognize it as a threat and will respond with an immune response to eradicate it.
There are two main kinds of vaccines: Core (usually legally required) and Non-Core (optional)
Core vaccines include Distemper, Parvo, Canine Hepatitis, and Rabies.
Non-Core vaccines include vaccines against bacteria such as Bordetella bronchiseptica, Borrelia burgdorferi and Leptospirosis.
Core Vaccines:
Distemper is a virus with no known cure. It's similar to the measles virus in humans. Early symptoms of an infection are fever (103.5+), red eyes, watery discharge from nose and eyes, lethargy, and anorexia. persistent coughing, vomiting, or diarrhea are also common symptoms.
Parvovirus (parvo) is highly contagious and is dangerous, particularly to puppies and very old dogs. Poor appetite, vomiting, diarrhea (with or without blood) are common symptoms. Parvo can attack the heart muscle and bone marrow function as well, and is often lethal. Many shelters will euthanize dogs with Parvo instead of trying to treat it due to the high mortality rate and because it is highly contagious.
Canine Hepatitis can be fatal. It starts by causing an upper respiratory infection, and then attacks the liver, eyes, kidneys, and then the bloodstream. It's a nasty virus.
DAPPv is also known as the canine distemper combination. It is a four-way vaccine that protects against distemper, andenovirus (Canine Hepatitis), parvovirus, and parainfluenza. Vaccination should begin at 8 weeks of age. Boosters are given every 3-4 weeks until the puppy has reached 16 weeks of age or older. After the initial series the vaccine is boosted in one year, and every three years after that.
Rabies is often fatal, and is very serious. It affects the dog's central nervous system and gray matter of their brain. There are two kinds of rabies, furious and paralytic. Furious rabies includes the type of rabies you hear about or see on movies and features increased and overt aggression, biting Paralytic rabies is also sometimes called dumb rabies, and features loss of coordination and weakness. Furious rabies usually lasts a few days, followed by paralytic rabies. The virus moves quickly and early treatment is necessary for recovery. Rabies can be transmitted to humans and is very dangerous.
The Rabies vaccine can be administered to puppies as young as 3 months of age. It's usually recommended for a puppy to get a one year vaccine, followed by another one year vaccine, then a three year vaccine.
Non-Core Vaccines
Bordetella is also called kennel cough. Your dog will need this vaccine if she or he is going to be boarded at a canine daycare or boarding facility, or otherwise around other dogs. It's a highly contagious respiratory infection, with the most common symptom being a persistent cough. A dog with kennel cough may also have watery nasal discharge, and in cases that have been left untreated, symptoms can progress to pneumonia, fever, lack of appetite, lethargy, and death. Dogs often show symptoms 3-4 days after exposure.
The Bordetella vaccine for dogs is administered either as an injection under the skin or via nose drops every 6-12 months. A vaccinated dog may still contract Bordetella, but the case is often less severe. Most dogs can be vaccinated every 12 months, but your vet may recommend more often if your dog is frequently exposed to other dogs (such as those in dog daycare).
Borellia burgdorferi is also known as Lyme Disease and is spread by ticks, especially black legged ticks. Some Flea prevention products also work against ticks, as I talked about in this post about Flea & Tick prevention, but there is also a vaccine available. Lyme Disease causes joint pain (this may be lifelong!), tiredness, fever, and loss of appetite. There can also be less common symptoms like sudden onset lameness. My dog Otis had Lyme Disease when I adopted him, which is part of why flea and tick prevention is so important to me.
The Lyme Disease, or Borellia burgdorferi, vaccine is usually given in two doses the first time, with each dose two to four weeks apart and annual re-vaccination. Puppies must be at least 9 weeks old to receive the vaccine.
There is a Leptospirosis vaccine available, and it is adminstered annually. You may have to ask your vet for this vaccine, as they may not offer it to all dogs. If your dog is frequently around other dogs, or has access to woods or water (lakes, ponds, streams) you may want to seriously consider this vaccine.
Remember: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
Source:
ASPCA
PetMD
PetsWebMD
VetStreet
AMVA
Vaccines work by introducing the virus or bacteria to the body in a very small amount, so that the body's natural immune system will develop antibodies to the virus. Once your dog's body does this, if the actual virus or bacteria is contracted, your dog's body will recognize it as a threat and will respond with an immune response to eradicate it.
There are two main kinds of vaccines: Core (usually legally required) and Non-Core (optional)
Core vaccines include Distemper, Parvo, Canine Hepatitis, and Rabies.
Non-Core vaccines include vaccines against bacteria such as Bordetella bronchiseptica, Borrelia burgdorferi and Leptospirosis.
Core Vaccines:
Distemper is a virus with no known cure. It's similar to the measles virus in humans. Early symptoms of an infection are fever (103.5+), red eyes, watery discharge from nose and eyes, lethargy, and anorexia. persistent coughing, vomiting, or diarrhea are also common symptoms.
Parvovirus (parvo) is highly contagious and is dangerous, particularly to puppies and very old dogs. Poor appetite, vomiting, diarrhea (with or without blood) are common symptoms. Parvo can attack the heart muscle and bone marrow function as well, and is often lethal. Many shelters will euthanize dogs with Parvo instead of trying to treat it due to the high mortality rate and because it is highly contagious.
Canine Hepatitis can be fatal. It starts by causing an upper respiratory infection, and then attacks the liver, eyes, kidneys, and then the bloodstream. It's a nasty virus.
DAPPv is also known as the canine distemper combination. It is a four-way vaccine that protects against distemper, andenovirus (Canine Hepatitis), parvovirus, and parainfluenza. Vaccination should begin at 8 weeks of age. Boosters are given every 3-4 weeks until the puppy has reached 16 weeks of age or older. After the initial series the vaccine is boosted in one year, and every three years after that.
Rabies is often fatal, and is very serious. It affects the dog's central nervous system and gray matter of their brain. There are two kinds of rabies, furious and paralytic. Furious rabies includes the type of rabies you hear about or see on movies and features increased and overt aggression, biting Paralytic rabies is also sometimes called dumb rabies, and features loss of coordination and weakness. Furious rabies usually lasts a few days, followed by paralytic rabies. The virus moves quickly and early treatment is necessary for recovery. Rabies can be transmitted to humans and is very dangerous.
The Rabies vaccine can be administered to puppies as young as 3 months of age. It's usually recommended for a puppy to get a one year vaccine, followed by another one year vaccine, then a three year vaccine.
Non-Core Vaccines
Bordetella is also called kennel cough. Your dog will need this vaccine if she or he is going to be boarded at a canine daycare or boarding facility, or otherwise around other dogs. It's a highly contagious respiratory infection, with the most common symptom being a persistent cough. A dog with kennel cough may also have watery nasal discharge, and in cases that have been left untreated, symptoms can progress to pneumonia, fever, lack of appetite, lethargy, and death. Dogs often show symptoms 3-4 days after exposure.
The Bordetella vaccine for dogs is administered either as an injection under the skin or via nose drops every 6-12 months. A vaccinated dog may still contract Bordetella, but the case is often less severe. Most dogs can be vaccinated every 12 months, but your vet may recommend more often if your dog is frequently exposed to other dogs (such as those in dog daycare).
Borellia burgdorferi is also known as Lyme Disease and is spread by ticks, especially black legged ticks. Some Flea prevention products also work against ticks, as I talked about in this post about Flea & Tick prevention, but there is also a vaccine available. Lyme Disease causes joint pain (this may be lifelong!), tiredness, fever, and loss of appetite. There can also be less common symptoms like sudden onset lameness. My dog Otis had Lyme Disease when I adopted him, which is part of why flea and tick prevention is so important to me.
The Lyme Disease, or Borellia burgdorferi, vaccine is usually given in two doses the first time, with each dose two to four weeks apart and annual re-vaccination. Puppies must be at least 9 weeks old to receive the vaccine.
Leptospirosis is something I had not heard of before until a friend of
mine from Brazil told me how her dog had died from this, so I looked it up and
found out that this bacteria causes infections across the world, particularly
in warm and rainy areas, and is very serious. Common risk factors for leptospirosis in dogs
residing in the United States include exposure to or drinking from rivers,
lakes or streams, dogs that are around other dogs. Some infected dogs do
not show any signs of illness or infections, some have a mild and transient
illness and recover spontaneously on their own, while others develop severe
illness and death.
Signs of leptospirosis may include fever, shivering, muscle tenderness,
reluctance to move, increased thirst, changes in the frequency or amount of
urination, dehydration, vomiting, diarrhea, loss of appetite, lethargy,
jaundice (yellowing of the skin and mucous membranes), or painful inflammation
within the eyes. The disease can cause kidney failure with or without liver
failure. Dogs may occasionally develop severe lung disease and have difficulty
breathing. Leptospirosis can cause bleeding disorders, which can lead to
blood-tinged vomit, urine, stool or saliva; nosebleeds; and pinpoint red spots
(which may be visible on the gums and other mucous membranes or on
light-colored skin). Affected dogs can also develop swollen legs (from fluid
accumulation) or accumulate excess fluid in their chest or abdomen. Soon after this bacteria infects your dog, fever and
bacterial infection of the blood develops. The bacteria reproduces in the
liver, kidneys, central nervous system, eyes, and/or reproductive system.
While a healthy dog's immune system may be able to clear out most of the
infection, often some bacteria is left in the kidneys which then infect the
urine. This bacteria can be passed between dogs and animals. Dogs can become infected and develop
leptospirosis if their mucous membranes (or skin with any wound, such as a cut
or scrape) come into contact with infected urine, urine-contaminated soil,
water, food or bedding; through a bite from an infected animal; by eating
infected tissues or carcasses; and rarely, through breeding. It can also be
passed through the placenta from the mother dog to the puppies.
There is a Leptospirosis vaccine available, and it is adminstered annually. You may have to ask your vet for this vaccine, as they may not offer it to all dogs. If your dog is frequently around other dogs, or has access to woods or water (lakes, ponds, streams) you may want to seriously consider this vaccine.
Remember: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!
Source:
ASPCA
PetMD
PetsWebMD
VetStreet
AMVA
Sunday, August 28, 2016
Aug 28: Rainbow Bridge Remembrance Day
August 28th is Rainbow Bridge Remembrance Day.
I have felt the loss of a beloved dog (and cat) who has gone to the rainbow bridge. While the poem says that your beloved pet will wait to cross the bridge, many also refer to an pet's passing as "crossing the rainbow bridge".
Whether of find this post on August 28 or any other day of the year, know that I am sorry for your loss no matter how long ago it happened. Please feel free to post a comment here to tell me about your furbaby that has gone to the rainbow bridge. If you'd like to post a picture along with your story, please check out our Facebook Page.
Source:
Dog Tipper
Tuesday, August 23, 2016
How Often Do You Wash Your Dogs Bowls?
How Often Do You Wash Your Dog's Bowls?
If your answer is everyday, then congratulations! You are treating your dog like family and washing his or her bowls as often as you should!
If you said once in awhile, not often, once every few days, or anything else it's okay! You should wash them more often but the good news is that this is something that's easy to change.
Think about it. Do you use the same plate (or bowl, or cup, or fork) every day, for every meal, without washing it in between meals? Probably not! Your pup shouldn't, either.
If you are using exclusively dry food, it's okay to wipe out the bowl in between meals and wash with soap and water at least every other day.
But, if you feed wet food (or wet in combination with dry, or dry food that has water or broth added) then you should wash the bowls with soap and water after every meal.
You definitely want to to remember to periodically wash the water bowl, too!
While we are talking about dog bowls and food, you might want to consider washing your hands before and after handling dog food. This will help prevent the contamination and/or spread of salmonella. I don't always remember to do this myself, but am making more of an effort!
REMEMBER! It doesn't matter how much Rover licks the bowl, it's not clean unless you wash it with soap and water! Many bowls are dishwasher safe (except some plastics) and can be washed in the dishwasher with your dishes to make the job easier.
Sources:
FoodSafety.gov
VetStreet
Sunday, August 14, 2016
National CHECK THE CHIP Day is August 15!
WHAT? You've never heard of this fabulous day?!?!
Here's the deal: August 15th is National Check The Chip day, as in MICROCHIP. It's a good idea to annually review the information you have on file with the microchip company, and to make an appointment to get your pet micro-chipped if he or she isn't already.
You can use the Universal Microchip Lookup Tool to check your pet's registration info. The following microchip companies participate:
- 24PetWatch
- AKC Companion Animal Recovery (AKC-CAR)
- EIDAP
- Found Animals
- HomeAgain (includes Banfield chips)
- InfoPet
- Microchip I.D. Systems
- PetKey
- PetLink
- Save This Life
- SmartTag Microchip
DID YOU KNOW?
- a micro-chip is about the size of a grain of rice
- the microchip only contains your dogs registration or microchip number, which can then be looked up on the Universal database. This is why it's so important to make sure your info is up to date with your microchip company.
- a lost dog without a microchip only finds it's owners around 21% of the time. Dogs with microchips are re-united more than twice that, around 52% of the time.
- getting your dog microchipped is easy, and can be done at a regular office visit. It's inserted with a hypodermic needle, and is no more painful than a normal injection.
- you should have your vet scan your dog at his annual exam to make sure the microchip is still functioning and can be detected.
- Many shelters and most rescues microchip adoptable dogs, but if yours isn't micro-chipped, it usually costs no more than $25-35 for your dog to be micro-chipped.
Sources:
AMVA
Monday, August 8, 2016
Have You Seen A SERVICE DOG?
Have you ever seen a dog in a store or restaurant that was wearing a service vest? You probably already know that it's a service dog, but do you know the different kinds of service dogs and the etiquette that should be observed when around one?
There are three main types of dogs in service:
Sources:
Please Don't Pet Me
Pet MD
Service Dog Central
There are three main types of dogs in service:
- Service Dogs: these dogs are trained to perform tasks that the human handler is unable to do (or unable to do without great difficulty) due to their disability. Almost all establishments must allow service dogs on the premises, except the federal government. Types of service dogs include:
- mobility dogs, which help with stability while walking. They wear a special harness with a counterweight to assist the handler with balance. They can also be trained to do things like retrieve or pickup items and open or close a door. These dogs also serve as guides for the blind.
- hearing dogs, who assist their deaf or hard of hearing handlers to sounds such as a baby crying, smoke alarms, doorbells, etc.
- seizure/alert dogs, whoare trained to do things like roll over their handler (to avoid an obstructed airway during seizure), pressing an emergency call button, block their handler from falling down stairs, and alerting their handler of when a seizure is imminent. Diabetic alert dogs also fall under this category, and can be trained to alert the handler when a child (in particular) is experiencing low blood sugar.
- autism dogs work a lot like hearing dogs, giving their handler an alert to things that require attention and focus. They can also be trained to remove their handler from an overtimulating situation by either directing them home or to a particular person.
- Therapy Dogs & Emotional Support Dogs are personal pets that are not protected by the Americans with Disabilities Act. Therapy dogs often visit hospitals and nursing homes with the consent of the business, but neither therapy dogs or emotional support dogs are allowed in any business unless the business owner allows it. Emotional support dogs often support people like soldiers who have seen combat or victims of abuse. Neither of these kinds of dogs are allowed on the cabin of a plane or anywhere that the business owners will not allow. Many of these dogs are rescue and shelter dogs that have been given a second chance at life.
Sources:
Please Don't Pet Me
Pet MD
Service Dog Central
Friday, August 5, 2016
Reverse Sneezing
A reverse sneeze is an alarming thing to hear the first time you hear it!
Normally, when a dog sneezes, air is being expelled out. A dog's head will move in a downward motion, and the air being expelled helps to remove the irritant from the dog's body.
But in a reverse sneeze, or paroxysmal respiration, a dog's head will often move up, and your dog will be sucking in air instead of expelling it. It sounds terrible and the first time one of my dogs did it, I was scared something was really wrong with him! The sound is usually like a loud snorting and gasping, and your dog may stand still while reverse sneezing. Though it sounds awful, reverse sneezing doesn't hurt your dog or cause any long term effects.
Some dogs are more like to experience reverse sneezing, like those with pushed in faces or who have other respiratory issues. Dogs with dental disease or who have mites in the nose may also experience reverse sneezing. It's actually fairly common.
Treatment usually isn't required, but if the reverse sneezing keeps occurring, you should take your dog to the vet to rule out things like mites, collapsed trachea, nasal tumors, polyps, or infections, etc. Treatment usually consists of soothing your dog, but for some cases, it's worsened by allergies and a medication such as benedryl or zyrtec may help. Check with your vet before giving any medication.
Sources:
PetMD
VCA Hospitals
Normally, when a dog sneezes, air is being expelled out. A dog's head will move in a downward motion, and the air being expelled helps to remove the irritant from the dog's body.
But in a reverse sneeze, or paroxysmal respiration, a dog's head will often move up, and your dog will be sucking in air instead of expelling it. It sounds terrible and the first time one of my dogs did it, I was scared something was really wrong with him! The sound is usually like a loud snorting and gasping, and your dog may stand still while reverse sneezing. Though it sounds awful, reverse sneezing doesn't hurt your dog or cause any long term effects.
Some dogs are more like to experience reverse sneezing, like those with pushed in faces or who have other respiratory issues. Dogs with dental disease or who have mites in the nose may also experience reverse sneezing. It's actually fairly common.
Treatment usually isn't required, but if the reverse sneezing keeps occurring, you should take your dog to the vet to rule out things like mites, collapsed trachea, nasal tumors, polyps, or infections, etc. Treatment usually consists of soothing your dog, but for some cases, it's worsened by allergies and a medication such as benedryl or zyrtec may help. Check with your vet before giving any medication.
Sources:
PetMD
VCA Hospitals
Thursday, August 4, 2016
Do You Brush Fido's Teeth?
Many pet owners (myself included for awhile) don't give much thought to their dogs teeth. My vet recommends that I brush my dogs teeth everyday. I mean to, but I often collapse in bed without brushing their teeth. I figure it's a good week if they get brushed three times. I know it's not enough and am trying to get in the habit of doing it daily.
I've purchased toothbrushes and toothpaste. I seem to have better luck using the finger brushes on my smaller dogs Otis and Lil' Bit, but I can use the regular toothbrush with Remy.
I tried a vanilla mint flavor, but unsurprisingly, it wasn't really enjoyed by my mutts. So, I also bought a beef flavored toothpaste made by Arm & Hammer. So far, all three dogs at least tolerate it.
Another thing I've been doing is giving my dogs dental treats that are supposed to help (at least a little) improve dental health. I was giving them Virbac CET Veggiedent treats because they are VOHC accepted, which means the Veterinary Oral Health Council accepts the claim that the company makes. Virbac CET Veggiedent treats claim to reduce tartar. Having the VOHC accepted label means that this product has proven (in at least two trials) to help reduce tartar by 15-20%. Unfortunately, though, these treats are also 3.4 kcal (calories) per gram, which for the size small treats (25g) means 85 calories per treat and for the large treats (35g) 105 calories per treat. My dogs love these, and I highly recommend them if your dog isn't overweight. In fact, I will likely still give these to my dogs, but less often or will break them in half so they get a smaller treat. We are also going to try a couple of other dental treats that are VOHC approved such as Get Naked Low Calorie and Greenies Weight Management. I am going to have my dogs try a dental treat that isn't necessarily low calorie or VOHC approved, but might help with their teeth, called Nutrident Complete, by Nylabone. After they've tried them for awhile, I'll post a product review.
Some vets (especially a certain national chain) promotes annual teeth cleaning. Depending on your dogs health, age, and tooth condition, you may actually need this. I've never had a dog that needed it more than every other or every three years. I am not a fan of annual cleanings for dogs unless the dog actually needs it, because your dog will need to be put under general anesthesia, and this should be done sparingly. There are some vets who don't use general anesthesia, but this is not recommended by the AAHA or AVDC. This is because the teeth will not get properly cleaned if the dog is awake, and also your dog is more likely to be injured. As I like to say, prevention is key, so do what you can to prevent or reduce the need for dental cleaning. That being said, it is important for your vet to check your dog's teeth and gums for abnormalities or gum disease, which may then require treatment, including dental cleaning. I'm not against dental cleanings for dogs, I just think they should only be done when they are actually needed.
Older dogs, as well as those that are smaller breed often need more cleanings than their younger or larger counterparts. Older dogs naturally have had longer for plaque and tartar to build up, and gum disease to set in. Smaller breeds often have crowded teeth, which leads to normal methods like dental treats and brushing to not be as effective.
3 yr old Remy with femur |
8 yr old Lil' Bit with femur |
5.5 yr old Otis with bovine femur |
So the takeaway is that your vet should examine your dog's teeth and gums annually, and you should follow their recommendation regarding dental cleanings. You can lessen the frequency of cleanings by working to reduce the buildup of plaque and tartar by brushing your dog's teeth at least once a day and giving them dental treats designed to help.
Sources:
Pet WebMD
AVDC
VetStreet
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